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Earlier this year we brought you an in-depth introduction to young independent brand, Heritage Watch Manufactory. The company quickly made a name for themselves by building traditional chronometers by way of a patented constant force escapement (one of 5 patents they boast). Having prolific designer, Eric Giroud lend his stylings didn’t hurt either. This year at Basel, HWM introduced their latest model, the Firmamentum. If you enjoy circumnavigating the oceans sans any electrical guidance systems, this is the watch you’ve been waiting for.

The Firmamentum is a complicated watch, but not in a way you might think. Foregoing many of the frivolous complications we so often see today, the Firmamentum’s complications are entirely purpose driven and function focused. However, the function on which they are focused, navigation by the heavens, may be considered antiquated by some, and mostly foreign in nature to the average consumer. Heritage call the watch a “unique measurement and navigation instrument” and classify its type as “Hour angle instrument for the observation of heavenly bodies by means of 13 hands with two additional displays.”

Sound complicated? You have no idea. So we asked it designer, Karsten Frassdorf to explain in the video above.

Warning: This is is one incredibly complicated timepiece, not meant for consumption by mere mortals.

From:HODINKEE

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Breitling Navitimer heritage Silver

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Entirely new this year from Vulcain is the 50s Presidents Chronograph Heritage.  Inspiration for the new watch comes from Vulcain’s early involvement with Spanish football team, Real Madrid, whose coach Francisco Bru used a Vulcain chronograph in training exercises for his players, and even credited the watch with helping them win the 1934 Spanish Championship. With a chronometer-certified movement, the new Presidents Chronograph Heritage continues the theme of precision timing, set to throwback good looks. Did we mention it’s a monopusher as well?

Click through for live photos, specs, and pricing.

From:HODINKEE

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In 2010, Tudor introduced a watch called “The Heritage Chronograph” (inspired by this chronograph from the early 1970s) that, in the eyes of many (including us), unofficially, but dramatically relaunched the brand that few here in the US of A ever saw and those in the remainder of the world thought of as anything more than “the poor man’s Rolex”. 

You see, Tudor was designed to be just that – it was created in the 1946 to be a less expensive Rolex, and through most of its history, employed half of its parent company’s genius (the Rolex Oyster case, but not the Rolex in-house calibers) and sold for about 2/3 the price.  It made perfect sense from a commercial stand point, but it was always an afterthought to most watch guys (with the exception of a few vintage sport models.)

But, with the Heritage Chrono, Tudor began to attract fans of its own, and the coolness to price ratio on this chronograph had even the mightiest of vintage Rolex collectors clamoring to get their hands on one.  Two years later, we’re told the Heritage Chrono is now the iconic Tudor model.   Last year, Tudor released another tribute to an old ticker, the Heritage Advisor alarm (based on this guy from the 1950s).  For an alarm watch, it’s priced well and has a following all its own. 

Now just last week Tudor brought back a third heritage piece, one that completes its line-up – they started with a chronograph, then went to an alarm watch, and now they have the Heritage Black Bay, a nod to the Tudor dive watches of yesteryear.  But, when the Heritage Black Bay was leaked online a short time before Basel World 2012, the purists lambasted it as a mish-mash of historical reference – a gilt, rose dial and big crown with snowflake hands?  That doesn’t make sense.  Except, it does.

Click through for in-depth analysis, specs, pricing, and lots of live photographs.

From:HODINKEE

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Basel 2012 officially opens today but we are already getting some exciting announcements from the show floor. Yesterday, Tudor (sibling brand of Rolex) announced the new Pelagos and Heritage Black Bay divers. The titanium-cased Pelagos looks amazing as it features a snow-flake hour hand (a nod to Tudor’s past), is completely satin finished (Rolex got all the bling in this family) and the Pelagos shows its Submariner roots without simply being an ETA powered Rolex clone. The Heritage Black Bay is a continuation of the successful Heritage line which Tudor launched in 2010. This new 41 mm diver is a modern look at a nearly fifty year old design from Rolex and Tudor. Both of these divers offer a glimpse into two different sides of Tudor, a company that has the unfavorable position of having to continually prove its relevance and find its groove while often seeing much of the spotlight go to Rolex.

All references to Rolex aside, you can see from the specifications listed in the above photo that Tudor is not messing and around with the Pelagos. This modern diver has a lumed ceramic bezel insert, an automatic helium escape valve and is powered by the bland yet reliable ETA 2824 automatic movement. The titanium bracelet has a stainless steel clasp that features a unique extension system which incorporates a spring-loaded mechanism with three fine adjustment points and an active setting that can tighten the clasp on its own as a wrist and wetsuit compresses at greater depths. We love the ability to adjust a bracelet in warmer weather so this system looks to be very practical for either diving or daily use scenarios. Hodinkee.com has reported the price to be 3950 CHF (~$ 4300 USD) which is a competitive price given the Tudor name and technology incorporated in the Pelagos.

In contrast to the Pelagos, the lovely-looking Tudor Heritage Black Bay incorporates a gilt dial and handset while offering a 41 mm stainless steel case, domed sapphire crystal and 200m water resistance. Just like the Pelagos, the Black Bay is powered by an ETA 2824 but can be had with either a bracelet or an aged leather strap. Pricing is rumored to be in the range of 5000 CHF (~$ 5450 USD) which is rather expensive for an ETA 2824 based dive watch.

The Pelagos looks like an instant winner in terms of design and the Black Bay looks lovely and should play well given the increased interest in vintage inspired models. The $ 4000-$ 6000 price range will see heated competition from Omega, Bremont, IWC and Breiting but US buyers will have to travel north to Canada to see these models as Tudor does not retail in the US. We think the Pelagos is the more attrative of the two and looks to be a no-nonsense translation of the modern Submariner styling that Tudor should be very proud of. Seeing as WatchReport.com has Canadian representation, we will do what we can to get some hands-on time with the Pelagos and Black Bay divers in the coming months. Until then, be sure to check out Tudor’s Basel 2012 page for more information on these new models.

From:WatchReport.com

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The Sowind Group has named a new president of its American operations. Sowind, which owns Swiss luxury watch brands Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard, is planning a US expansion strategy for the Girard-Perregaux brand and the new president will be working closely with Sowind CEO, Michele Sofisti, and Girard-Perregaux managing director, Stefano Macaluso, to oversee this process.

Michael Margolis

“I am very excited and honored to join an iconic brand like Girard-Perregaux,” said Michael Margolis, the man who has been chosen to do the job. “I have admired the brand and its heritage from afar for many years.”

Girard-Perregaux does have an impressive and illustrious heritage. Although the Girard-Perregaux name was not established until the year 1856, the brand is generally considered to have been founded in 1791, by an orphan named Jean-François Bautte, when he signed his first watches at the age of 19. Bautte, an industrious youth, learned the various trades associated with watchmaking and became popular for the extra-thin models that he made. When he set up a manufacturing company in Geneva, Bautte decided to keep all of the various watchmaking trades under the one roof, and idea that was quite innovative at the time. In his lifetime, Bautte went on the trade with all the European courts and was even visited by the future Queen Victoria. Since that time, the company that would eventually become Girard-Perregaux has been renowned for innovation, style and prestige.

Right: 1840 Lepine Pendant Watch signed by J.-F Bautte & Co.; Center: 1870 Cross shaped pendant watch; Left: 1889 La Esmerelda Pocket Watch with Three Gold Bridges Tourbillon – owned by the President of Mexico, General Diaz.

Some historical highlights:

• 1867 – Girard-Perregaux won a prize at the Paris Universal Exhibition for a new tourbillon design. (The tourbillon was developed around 1795 by Abraham-Louis Breguet as a way to counteract the negative effects that gravity has on the more sensitive pieces of the watch escapement. By placing the escapement in a rotating cage, the pallet fork, balance wheel and hairspring were more insulated against shocks, gravity, magnetism and imbalance within the watch itself. Many variations on the tourbillon have been developed since.)

• 1880 – Constant Girard-Perregaux developed a wristwatch concept for German naval officers. Although Kaiser Wilhelm I ordered the watches and 2,000 were made, wristwatches did not gain in cultural popularity until the following century.

• 1889 – Constant Girard-Perregaux’s masterpiece, the famed Three Gold Bridges Tourbillon won a gold medal at the Exposition Paris Universal Exhibition; this piece so dominated the industry that it was disallowed from further competition in 1900.

• 1930 – Predicted by Girard-Perregaux some fifty years earlier, the wristwatch exceeded the pocket watch in popularity.

• 1945 – The rectangular, art deco inspired model was created. Fifty years later, it was revived and called the Vintage 1945.

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 with Three Gold Bridges Tourbillon

• 1966 – Girard-Perregaux’s in-house R&D team developed the first high-frequency movement, at 36,000 vibrations per hour. These chronometers performed so well that, in 1967, a full 70 percent of certificates issued by the Neuchatel Observatory were awarded to Girard-Perregaux High Frequency Chronometers.

• 1970 – One of the first Swiss watch companies to get on board with the production of quartz wristwatches, Girard-Perregaux set the universal standard frequency at 32,768 Hz.

• 1981 – Girard-Perregaux was also one of the first to return to traditional mechanical timepieces after quartz had turned the Swiss watchmaking industry upside-down. Girard-Perregaux released a pocket watch containing the three gold bridges Tourbillon.

• 1992-1993 – Italian entrepreneur, architect and former racecar driver, Luigi Macaluso took over Girard-Perregaux and signed a “co-branding” agreement with Ferrari.

Ferrari watch face designed by Girard-Perregaux

• 1997 – Villa Marguerite, the building that would house the new Girard-Perregaux museum was purchased.

• 2004 – The first Girard-Perregaux boutique opened in Gstaad.

Margolis, the man who will now bring Girard-Perregaux into the US in the 21st century, was born in the States. He graduated from the University of Connecticut with a double major in Latin American Studies and Foreign Languages; he is fluent in English, Spanish, Portuguese and German. Margolis has held positions at Crest Reprographics and at Nikon. It was while working for TimeZone.com, however, that he developed a passion for luxury watches. He moderated that site for almost 11 years before taking a job with Hublot as US sales director. Now he will be overseeing Girard-Perregaux’s advance into that same marketplace.

“Mike is a remarkable individual, with true passion for the craft,” said Sofisti. “We are glad to have him on board to lead the US team into this new phase of the brand.”

Margolis will assume office on Thursday, March 1.

From:Luxury Watches That Impress Review Blog

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This is a great looking new introduction for BaselWorld 2012 from Tissot.  The Heritage PR516 is a throwback to the PR 516 from the 1960s and 70s, one of Tissot’s most favored vintage pieces.  To be specific, the Heritage PR516 is actually an homage to the Tissot Seastar PR 516 GL – and this new piece retains the same dial markings as the original.

Sized at 40mm with a sapphire caseback (notice the rotor?) the Heritage PR516 will be available in steel or PVD gold and on either a leather racing strap or a steel big-hole bracelet as seen in the picture. 

We don’t have word on pricing yet, but it will be between $ 500 and $ 1000.

FYI: If you like the looks of this new Tissot but prefer something vintage, we found an original Tissot PR 516 in NOS condition right here (no affiliation with seller).

From:HODINKEE

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Thiswatch is available for purchase at wwww.WatchWear.com, where you are guaranteed to get the best deal. If you find a better deal anywhere else, we’ll beat it! View more videos at watchwear.tv!
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