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While we’ve shown you some of our favorite pieces from Panerai at SIHH 2012 (including this badass ceramic tourbillon, the very first watch in a new case style, and two special edition Radiomirs) there was one piece noticeably absent piece from our coverage, a watch that seems to have re-energized some dormant Panerisiti with its black on black on black ceramic look.  We are, of course, talking about the The Panerai Tuttonero Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic Ceramic, or just the Tuttonero.  Even if you have a mild interest in Panerai, this is one you’ll want to see.

From:HODINKEE

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Bulgari Maserati watch 7 Bulgari Octo Maserati Watch Hands On

Buglari (Bvlgari) was really proud of the fact that no Maserati branding was on the dial of their special edition Octo watch for Maserati. Turn the piece over and you’ll see the famous Trident logo, but the word “Maserati” does not appear anywhere on the watch itself. That is interesting and perhaps wise.

Logically, an intersection between a famous auto and watch maker coming together to make timepieces makes sense. Though in reality few have succeeded in such an endeavor. Ferrari had its famous claim to shame with Panerai, and other brands have had less than stellar results with similar cooperations. A positive example comes from the Breitling/Bentley connection – though I don’t care much for the watch designs of that ilk. That is OK, they sell well enough without my artistic seal of approval. Ferrari just got with Hublot – which hopefully will make magic out of the relationship. Suffice it to say that when car and watch makers play, it is risky business. Did Bulgari and Maserati get it right?

2 Bulgari Octo Maserati Watch Hands On

Bulgari Maserati watch 1 Bulgari Octo Maserati Watch Hands On

Only sales success will really prove anything, but I think they got the design and branding right. Verbally indicating that “Bulgari made this watch for Maserati” sounds good. Though the watch itself should speak those words in a much, much lower volume. I once had a seasoned watch industry executive tell me that the key to killing a co-branded watch was to place both brand names on the dial. While that is not a universal rule, it seemed to make sense. Bulgari must have had that same conversation.

In fact, there are two names potentially missing from the dial of this watch – Maserati and Gerald Genta. The base watch is the Octo from the Gerald Genta collection. Until this point Bulgari was dual branding these watches, but in this case Bulgari gets the exclusive title glory. If you want to see the Gerald Genta name you’ll need to check the rotor on the automatic movement. This particular Octo for Maserati watch is a prototype – which unfortunately has a too opaque blued sapphire crystal over the movement. The final versions will have crystals that are more transparent. Still blue with the Maserati trident, but still clear enough to offer a view to the caliber GG7800 automatic chronograph movement.

Bulgari Maserati watch 2 Bulgari Octo Maserati Watch Hands On

Bulgari Maserati watch 6 Bulgari Octo Maserati Watch Hands On

That movement is really nifty. It includes the famous Gerald Genta retrograde minutes and jumping hour system of telling the time (which the Gefica Hunter GMT watch I reviewed here also uses). The lower dial is a retrograde date indicator. Then you have a cool retrograde 12 hour chronograph using the two fan shaped dials on the sides of the watch. What a marvelous dial all around. Quad retrograde hands, jumping hour, and a gorgeous symmetry. This would have made the late Mr. Genta proud. Note how the chronograph hand points down versus up in the resting position. Bulgari did a sweet job designing the dial with silver and blue tones to match the Maserati theme. Wonderfully classy and eccentric at the same time.

Years later the Octo case is still a healthy mixture of cool avant garde and architectural inspiration. Here in steel, the case is 45mm wide and more comfortable on the wrist than it may appear. The strap is tightly integrated with the case and is modeled after the leather seats of many Maserati cars. That includes the padded sections and perforation for air ventilation.

Bulgari Maserati watch 3 Bulgari Octo Maserati Watch Hands On

Bulgari wasn’t really clear on how many pieces they would be making. The Octo for Maserati piece is billed as a “special edition”. Effectively, I am not sure what that means. It is special though – right? What I think is that Bulgari is going to be make a limited run and see how they sell through Bulgari dealers, and maybe some Maserati dealers. Maserati makes a few models that are higher-end, but this watch will likely cost a healthy chunk of a car’s price. Overall really nice and likely as good as you can get when it comes to subtly having a watch brand produce a piece for an auto maker. When it comes down to it, Bulgari feels that both they and Maserati are Italian – so it could make perfect sense to the consumer.

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Bulgari Maserati watch 7 104x100 Bulgari Octo Maserati Watch Hands On
Bulgari Maserati watch 8 125x100 Bulgari Octo Maserati Watch Hands On

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams – aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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From:aBlogtoRead.com

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Whatever your feelings on the impending transition of the Mayan calendar, end of the world or not, DeBethune has built a fitting tribute to the breadth of knowledge the Mayan people displayed in creating their calendars. Symbolizing the cosmic pyramid, the advent of a new world, and humankind’s existential passage to the loftiest levels of consciousness, DeBethune’s Ninth Underworld is a serious conversation piece. Of course, it tells the time as well, and we got a chance to get our hands on this special watch at this year’s Basel world fair.  

From:HODINKEE

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Hublot Unico all carbon watch 6 Hublot UNICO All Carbon Watch Hands On

“Oh, hello carbon fiber. Yeah, I haven’t seen you in a while. I know you used to hang out here a lot, but over the last few years ceramic has been stealing a lot of the attention. We didn’t always get along when you were popular, but you did have your moments.” This carbon fiber-based Hublot watch almost feels like a blast from the rather recent past. With an almost all-carbon fiber case and bezel, there is a reason this watch is named the Hublot UNICO All Carbon.

Carbon fiber was really starting to get overdone a few years ago when it started showing up all over the place. The worst was the legions of cheap watches with fake carbon fiber dials – yuck! The watch industry really put carbon fiber on the backburner as a material lately. Like I said, materials such as ceramic and titanium started to get so much more popular, and were so versatile, that carbon fiber just didn’t get as much attention from designers.

Hublot Unico all carbon watch 10 Hublot UNICO All Carbon Watch Hands On

Hublot Unico all carbon watch 5 Hublot UNICO All Carbon Watch Hands On

Then all of a sudden I see this UNICO All Carbon watch from Hublot and suddenly remember why carbon fiber was interesting in the first place. I also probably like it so much because there is no carbon fiber in the dial. Just lots of Hublot style skeletonization with a view to the movement. The name UNICO is part of the watch and placed on the movement. UNICO is a title given to some of Hublot’s in-house made movements. Based on a modified ETA Valjoux 7750 architecture, the UNICO is a totally in-house manufactured automatic chronograph movement. One of the improvements over the 7750 architecture in this caliber HUB1240 movement is the use of a column wheel in the chronograph. You can see the column-wheel right in the dial near 6 o’clock. The chronograph also has a flyback feature.

I don’t know what the status is right now, but early UNICO movements I saw even used carbon fiber plates. I don’t think that is the case with this model though. While the dial of the watch is skeletonized, it is not done in a way that you can’t read the watch. Hublot was especially careful with this model to promote legibility as well as visual interest. On the rear of the watch you can see the movement through the sapphire crystal caseback window.

Hublot Unico all carbon watch 9 Hublot UNICO All Carbon Watch Hands On

Hublot Unico all carbon watch 8 Hublot UNICO All Carbon Watch Hands On

To create the look of the dial, Hublot used a tinted sapphire crystal for much of the dial. On it are applied ruthenium-coated hour markers with bright white lume and matching hands. The chronograph here has only one subdial and measures 60 minutes. The movement also has the time and date of course. Over the dial is another sapphire crystal that is AR coated.

For the UNICO All Carbon, Hublot uses a King Power chronograph case. The 48mm wide case is actually carbon fiber, as is the bezel. There are PVD black titanium screws used for the case and bezel. A ring of rubber lines the side of the bezel. The black carbon fiber case looks cool, and the visual texture of carbon fiber is really at its best here with the high-quality material. The case is very light and strong despite the size.

Hublot Unico all carbon watch 2 Hublot UNICO All Carbon Watch Hands On

Matched to the case is the typical cool looking rubber strap you see on many King Power Hublot watches. The overall look and feel on this UNICO All Carbon is impressive. Hublot mixed a focus on the material with an in-house made movement for a truly unique timepiece. The UNICO All Carbon (ref. 701.QX.0140.RX) isn’t a limited edition model, but will probably be produced in limited quantities for a couple of years.

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Hublot Unico all carbon watch 1 130x100 Hublot UNICO All Carbon Watch Hands On

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams – aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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From:aBlogtoRead.com

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You’re looking at the Montblanc TimeWalker TwinFly Chronograph GreyTech.  It was a watch that nobody saw coming at SIHH, and it’s one that left a lot of us saying “hmm, that’s not bad at all.”  The monochromatic appearance of the watch is what brings you in, using a satinized and pearl-blasted titanium case and with grey cut away dial revealing seven time indications.  But, it’s the in-house Montblanc MB LL100 chronograph caliber that makes a handsome watch, a watch worth owning.

From:HODINKEE

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Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Cera Gold watch 3 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ceragold Watches Hands On

For 2012 Omega released a new 18k red gold version of the Seamaster Planet Ocean three-hand and chronograph models with a new type of “Ceragold” bezel. Ceragold is more or less the gold version of Liquidmetal (that I discussed in more detail here). It is a special process that Omega uses to inset gold in the engraved ceramic bezel. In a sense, this is Omega’s answer to Rolex’s Cerachrom.

So why isn’t it just “gold Liquidmetal”? Because it isn’t. The Liquidmetal process is very similar to Ceragold, but uses a different type of metal. Ceragold actually uses gold. In a nutshell, the ceramic bezel is formed and then the numeral and index holes are engraved in the ceramic bezel disc. After a conductive layer is formed in the engraved area, layers of 18k red gold are applied using an “electroforming” process. Next, the excess gold is polished off and the Ceragold bezel is finished. Omega details the Ceragold process rather well here.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Cera Gold watch 12 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ceragold Watches Hands On

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Cera Gold watch 7 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ceragold Watches Hands On

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Cera Gold watch 8 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ceragold Watches Hands On

So as you can see, Ceragold is similar to Liquidmetal, but not quite the same. Plus, it is a cool term. Note that as of now it only applies to the forming of the bezel. Each of the watches I have photographed are 18k red gold on black, but there are also white with gold models available. The black and gold models are extremely sexy though.

These watches are the 45.5mm wide versions of the Seamaster PO. There is the chronograph and three-hand version available with the Ceragold bezel – both look pretty fantastic. Omega will also offer the smaller three-hand Seamaster PO in the 42mm wide case with the Ceragold bezel. The watches contain in-house made Omega automatic movements. For more information about the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean watches see my review here.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Cera Gold watch 6 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ceragold Watches Hands On

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Cera Gold watch 4 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ceragold Watches Hands On

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Cera Gold watch 2 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ceragold Watches Hands On

Being gold models these watches have the higher-end 8501 or 9301 calibre movements. These versions of the 8500 and 9300 movement range have 18k red gold bridges and rotors. At this time I don’t think there is a matching 18k red gold bracelet, but the watches do come on black alligator straps. Omega makes a damn solid diver and nothing is lost here with the 18k red gold versions of the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ceragold models. Prices are $ 22,500 for the 42mm PO, $ 25,000 for the 45.5mm PO, and $ 33,000 for the 45.5mm PO Chronograph Ceragold models.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Cera Gold watch 1 129x100 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ceragold Watches Hands On
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Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Cera Gold watch 11 115x100 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ceragold Watches Hands On
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Cera Gold watch 12 129x100 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ceragold Watches Hands On

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams – aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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  4. Omega Presents The 2011 Seamaster Planet Ocean Watch Collection
  5. Omega Seamaster 1948 Co-Axial Chronometer Watch Hands-On

From:aBlogtoRead.com

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Bremont makes some really tough, very werable, everyday pieces.  The watches are incredibly well built, and as Ben told you in the FT a few months back, all of them will soon be built in a state of the art Bremont facility not in the Vallee de Joux, but in the United Kingdom.  See how the dial above says “London” at 6 o’clock and not “Swiss Made?”

At Basel World this year, we got a chance to preview what could be a really hot seller for Bremont, the ALT1-WT World Timer. 

From:HODINKEE

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Arcadia AC01 watch 1 Arcadia AC01 Watches Hands On

Back in 2010 I wrote about the revival of watch brand Arcadia here. I focused on their unique model called the AC01. This year they have released (among other things) a new AC01 called the Version 2. Both AC01 versions 1 and 2 are going to be discussed in this article. The watches feature the same case and movement, but have different dials and case finishes. There are also distinct strap options.

Earlier this year I sat down with Richard Baldwin, the CEO of Arcadia and a true watch lover. We discussed the brand, and a bit about what is involved in bringing a new high-end watch to market. The key for Arcadia is to be different. Like many watch brands either new or revived, being distinct from their competitors is key.

Arcadia AC01 watch 10 Arcadia AC01 Watches Hands On

Arcadia AC01 watch 6 Arcadia AC01 Watches Hands On

Arcadia’s take on being different was to have a highly sculpted cushion-style case with a unique dial and movable lugs. In fact, the AC01 Version 1 looks more avant garde than the Version 2. The AC01 has the more bubble-style hands and wild dial. The AC01 Version 2 has a more angular minimalist dial. I believe it was offered to give people a more subtle way of enjoying the unique case.

The AC01 case design is pretty cool. It is mostly steel with some titanium and is 42mm wide (by 40mm tall). The cushion-style case shape and thickness allows it to look larger than it is. The long lugs move to wrap around your wrist for pretty excellent comfort. The wealth of screws on the lugs and on the dial/bezel make for a neo-industrial look.

Arcadia AC01 watch 8 Arcadia AC01 Watches Hands On

Arcadia AC01 watch 3 Arcadia AC01 Watches Hands On

On the sides of the case are protruding black strips that are actually pushers. That is a cool design feature if I ever saw one. On the left of the case, the entire section is pressed to adjust the GMT hand, while on the right of the case the upper and lower strips are used to control the chronograph. I rather enjoyed that. Inside the watch is a Dubois Depraz modified Swiss ETA 2892 automatic movement. The DD module adds a 12 hour chronograph, and GMT hand at 12 o’clock. There is also a date window at 6 o’clock.

Arcadia AC01 watch 9 Arcadia AC01 Watches Hands On

Arcadia AC01 watch 4 Arcadia AC01 Watches Hands On

The AC01 watches each come in a few style choices. The AC01 Version 2 for example currently comes with a red or yellow tinted dial. The Version 1 comes with different case finishes and some sections of the case available in black. On the models I got to see, the Version 1 watches have more technical textile straps, while the Version 2 models have nice alligator straps. My choice? To have the Arcadia AC01 Version 1 with the strap from the Version 2. Overall, these are pretty well made and very unique watches that will surely have a polarizing reaction from watch lovers. Prices are 9,795 Euros (7,995 British Pounds)

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Arcadia AC01 watch 11 95x100 Arcadia AC01 Watches Hands On

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams – aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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From:aBlogtoRead.com

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Ask most guys under the age of 50 if they’d wear a skeleton watch, and they’d say “No f’n way.”  The reason for that is, up until recently, most were relegated to regal, almost faux opulent designs that were just a little too ornate, a little too “blingy” in the most upper eastside-y / Purdy sort of way. 

Then came the Openworked Royal Oak (ref 15305) from AP and the Altiplano Skeleton from Piaget, which we showed you first here.  These two watches are the best examples of the new type of skeletonized watches – the types of openworking that is less dandy / ornate and more manly / industrial.  At SIHH and while visiting Piaget with our contest winner, we got a chance to go hands-on with this awesome new skeletonitzed Altiplano.

Click through for details, pricing, and more pics.

From:HODINKEE

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Sarpaneva Korono K0 watch 4 Sarpaneva Korona K0 Ruler Of Water Watch Hands On

After some re-visioning and rebuilding, Finnish watch maker Sarpaneva has completed their dive watch that will be known as the Korona K0 “Ruler of Water.” I saw the prototypes of the K0 a year earlier in 2011 and the final versions are nicer looking and more distinct. Those who recall the 2011 version will notice the lack of screws on the bezel, updated dial, and movement of the crown to the 4 o’clock position.

Sarpaneva will release three versions of the Korona K0 to start. The cases will be all steel, with some DLC black/gray application options on the case and dial, and of course the option of having some of that lovely blued steel. Most Sarpaneva watches have been typified by their grimacing moon face. The diver doesn’t include that, but does have that cool skeletonized dial Sarpaneva is known for. These watches are made in extremely limited numbers, one at a time, by Mr. Sarpaneva himself.

Sarpaneva Korono K0 watch 3 Sarpaneva Korona K0 Ruler Of Water Watch Hands On

Sarpaneva Korono K0 watch 8 Sarpaneva Korona K0 Ruler Of Water Watch Hands On

Just seeing the case lets you know who made this watch. The special shape of the design is attractive and sized to 46mm wide for the “Ruler of Water” watch. The steel case doesn’t wear too large though as the bezel takes up a lot of the visual mass. I think this size suits the design well. Sapraneva and I discussed the caseback of the watch at length. I felt it was too simple and he thought the simplicity was unique given his penchant for not having simple looking watches. That was an amusing conversation.

Like a good dive watch, the case is water resistant to 300 meters and there is SuperLumiNova on the hands and hour markers. At 11.2mm thick, the case is not too chunky and the watch has a 2.5mm thick AR coated sapphire crystal. The dial is very nice and the version with the blued steel plate is really sexy. I might have liked however for the 12 o’clock hour indicator to look a bit distinct. I love the style of the tip of the seconds hand as applied to the face.

Sarpaneva Korono K0 watch 7 Sarpaneva Korona K0 Ruler Of Water Watch Hands On

Sarpaneva Korono K0 watch 5 Sarpaneva Korona K0 Ruler Of Water Watch Hands On

For the Korona K0, Sarpaneva incorporated an internal rotating diver’s bezel in a very clever way. Basically he just reworked the date disc into a dive ring. Changing the gears and mainplate a bit, you now have an internal rotating diver’s bezel versus the date. It is of course controlled via the crown. This was a very simple way of adding the functionality without having to go wild with engineering costs. You’ll notice how the Sarpaneva logo is incorporated into the timing ring. The watch is attached to a rubber strap.

Sarpaneva Korono K0 watch 1 Sarpaneva Korona K0 Ruler Of Water Watch Hands On

For the movement, Sarpaneva again relies on modifying a Soprod A10 automatic. He has become quite adept at playing with these Swiss movements. Overall a really nice piece, the Korona K0 is a great “alternative” dive watch and a cool way of enjoying Sarpaneva. I am not sure how many of these they will make. I am told that the Korona K0 will be a limited edition, but no word on how many. Sarpaneva does however assert the limited nature of his timepieces by stating that they are “One of the Few” on the back of at least this watch. Price is between 6,500 and 9000 Euros depending on the version.

Sarpaneva Korono K0 watch 1 78x100 Sarpaneva Korona K0 Ruler Of Water Watch Hands On
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Sarpaneva Korono K0 watch 11 76x100 Sarpaneva Korona K0 Ruler Of Water Watch Hands On

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams – aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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